Creative directors are the breath and life of fashion houses across the globe - who turn ideas into wearable pieces that grace the runway first; your closet second. Or so they hope. What makes Chanel so distinct? Maybe it’s the classic woolen suit, defying time again and again, the cross-stitching on the leather handbags; the timelessness of statement pearls around your neck with an interlocking “C”. Or perhaps the unmistakeable maison couture signature look comes from overseer Karl Lagerfeld, who’s as much a part of the brand’s artistry today as Chanel was herself.
What a creative director hopes to achieve is nothing short of Lagerfeld’s stamp on Chanel, as well as Italian design house, Fendi. Fashion week this fall not only unveiled impressive collections, but debut collections from fresh faces across some of the most established houses in the industry. With their input new and their vision innovative, just who are these directors and more importantly, what do they bring to the table?
Valentino SS17 Photo: @maisonvalentino on Instagram
Pierpaolo Piccioli took over from former Valentino creative eye, Maria Grazia Chiuri. Taking note from artist Hieronymus Bosch, Piccioli unearthed a relaxed array of delicate pieces. He talked about his work saying,“This collection is a journey through time”. Paying homage to the effervescent ways of Valentino, Piccioli is making a nod to the past while leaving us inspired for the future of the label.
The 90s seem to show no sign of letting up, with chokers and band tees gracing our every day wardrobe, and now it seems we’ll be dusting off our pleated pants and shoulder padded tops from the back of the closet as well. Or just making a trip to the nearest Yves Saint Laurent store. The pressure was on for Anthony Vaccarello’s first collection after the departure of the brand’s beloved Hedi Slimane, and he made a signature impression with gold accents, velvet tops, and asymmetric dresses. It was a little bit of everything from one iconic decade in the age of YSL breathed into modern day reinventions.
Maria Grazia Chiuri departed from Valentino and made her mark at Dior this season, making it the most anticipated maison debut of Paris Fashion Week. Also the first female creative head at the French label, Chiuri brought her attitude and spunk to the established brand. Tees were paired with sheer, embellished skirts for a sprinkle of model off-duty casual to contrast the house’s feminine trademark. New faces marks a new era for some deep-rooted brands in the industry, but they will no doubt make their unique imprint and leave us eager for more.